When I was first introduced to Eugene Lin’s work –
just before he took part in the first Singapore Digital Fashion Week (DFW) – I was truly
impressed.
And even though he felt the need to head to London to
pursue his dream, his talent gave me even more conviction that there are many more world
class creative gems in the little red dot.
I was initially attracted by the obvious. The breathtaking
digital prints which featured in Eugene’s past two seasons collections have
been extraordinary. But when interviewing the designer as part of DFW he
mentioned to me that it is not something he will keep doing for long so I half expected
his latest collection at London Fashion Week might come as a surprise for those
used to seeing his stunning prints.
What he actually did was evolution and not
revolution. He hasn’t ditched his staples, instead improving on his existing
strengths and adding smaller experimental twists which hint at a new direction.
Impeccable tailoring, inventive cuts and little details which separate luxury from the high
street.
From the beginning of the show, the mood was set by
the soundtrack including Cher’s Bang Bang (My Baby Shot me Down) and a
cacophony of gunfire. The name of the collection was Cupid De Locke which is
described as a sequel to his
spring/summer 2013 collection The
Judgment of Paris.
The theme itself is an exploration of the relationship
between love and violence and as a result the collection came tough and sexy
using some stunning details and darker colour scheme of black and burgundy to illustrate the theme.
While Eugene’s aesthetics remain familiar, i.e.
perfectly-tailored separates mixing prints and basic pieces, figure-hugging
ultra feminine frocks and uber chic trench dresses – this collection has seen
the London-based designer push more boundaries and explore different techniques
and creative re-compositions of some pieces like the trench - which I will come to shortly.
The
biggest surprise comes with the fact that the two standout elements did not
involve the ‘p’ word. While the shattered glass print has added another dimension
to pieces like dresses and shirts, the focus this time was more on the
embellishment and re-working the possibilities of the trench – a signature in
Eugene’s recent collections.
The sexy dresses came in mini and knee-length versions
with a tough edge added by bullet shell adornments giving it that rock n roll
element. The result was super sleek, wearable and most importantly flattering.
An often forgotten aesthetic which is not always easy to find in young designers’
who are keen to make a statement. There is no man-repellent look here thank
God!
The most wow-inducing pieces were the trench coats,
jackets and dresses which were re-imagined by Eugene in all different cuts and
forms that made me wonder what how he came up with so many variations! I
especially loved the trench strapless top and trench dress with detachable cape and the stunning embellished version.
Burberry eat your heart out!
These pieces have demonstrated a great deal of skill in
that area and the versatility of the designer which proves that there are
always different and new techniques and ideas to explore. This is clearly the
work of a designer cementing his own signature style, but feeling comfortable
enough in his craftsmanship to be able to add those tailoring and patterning
twists. If you think of the ethos the amazing Sir Paul Smith does it for his
menswear you won’t be far wide of the mark.
I have to say that – as a Singaporean resident and
honorary one if you like - I’m so very proud of Eugene, hopefully the first of
many in a new wave of Singaporean international talent.
All photos by Christopher Dadey